Iconic Houston Mexican restaurant still satisfies after 44 years
Mexican cuisine is such a major part of Texas’ diverse dining scene that there’s no shortage of taquerias across the state. But at least one Houston institution stands apart with a history as rich as its salsa. Long before it became a restaurant, La Mexicana, the festive getaway in the heart of Houston’s Montrose neighborhood, started as something much simpler: a supermarket.
While it has always called the same building home—1018 Fairview St.—the business originally had a different look and name: La Mexicana Supermarket & Deli. The “little grocery store” opened its doors the 1950s but entered a new era in 1982, when Mexico natives Eduardo Treviño and America Quintanilla purchased the supermarket after moving to Houston. They wanted to own their own business, Chron previously reported, and that’s exactly what they accomplished.
Beyond its grocery lineup of fresh meats, veggies, sodas, beer and snacks, La Mexicana Supermarket & Deli started eventually selling tacos and tamales, paving the way for the grocery to become La Mexicana Restaurant and Bar.
From the colorful papel picado and murals on the walls to the sounds of Latin icons like José José and Piero De Benedictis filling the air, La Mexicana captures a rich essence of Mexico that perfectly matches the food on the plate.
Much like Houston itself, La Mexicana has evolved dramatically over the decades. Yet through every transformation, it has remained a Montrose mainstay, with a mix of traditional Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex staples—especially the foundational menu items that started it all.
Take the restaurant’s taco lineup, for instance, which is as varied in size as it is in flavor. You’ve got street-style tacos—a tiny trio of corn tortillas loaded with fresh avocado slices, cilantro, and onions spilling over the sides. You’ve also got the single tacos, packed in buttery, handmade flour tortillas that can be topped with a variety of meats.
Two of La Mexicana’s most popular beef options provide a distinct and delicious contrast. The carne asada delivers a stronger, saucier punch with tender chunks of meat, while the rich, pulled strips of barbacoa simply melt in your mouth with every bite.
But the various tacos are just a small part of La Mexicana’s massive menu. Open for all-day breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant serves a variety of classic dishes à la carte or as combo plates.
And it’s those same foundational dishes that helped the family business expand in 2023 with a second location called La Mex in Houston’s Garden Oaks neighborhood. La Mex is a modern, fast-casual chapter for a longtime staple that continues to draw in generations of Houston foodies.